The 2005 Pinot Noir Russian River (2,100 cases) is a useful introduction to Hobbs’ juicy, fruit-forward, up-front style. Its dark ruby/purple hue is followed by scents of plums, raspberries, white chocolate, and earth. This well-made, full-bodied, fleshy Pinot is ideal for drinking during its first 4-6 years of life. Although I did not have an opportunity to taste the 2004 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Malbec, the 2004 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($85; 92) and the 2004 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Malbec ($150; 96) make one realize just what spectacular raw materials combined with impeccable winemaking can accomplish. Although they are not inexpensive, they are amazing wines. I always end my tasting with the dynamic Paul Hobbs with his two Argentinean Malbecs. Dr. J. Miller is the Wine Advocate team’s South American expert, and I’m sure he’ll chime in on what he thinks of these wines, but there are so many great Malbecs coming from Argentina, it’s a fun place to be at the moment. Not yet released. Previously recommended: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (93), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard (97), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard (95), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Cross Barn (87), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Hyde Vineyard (93), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard (94+). Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843