The top cuvee of botrytis-infected sweet wine is Acininobili. The compelling 1998 Acininobili, one of the greatest sweet wines made in Italy, competes with the finest Barsacs and Sauternes. Made from 85% Vespaiola, 10% Tocai, and 5% Garganega, this full-bodied, opulent, unctuously-textured wine exhibits notes of honeyed grapefruit, Mandarin oranges, over-ripe pears, and creme caramel presented in a full-bodied, concentrated style. The new oak has been totally absorbed by the wine's concentration and extract. It should drink well for 12-15 years.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620