The 2005 VINHA MARIA TERESA, sourced from vines generally exceeding 90 years in age, is one of Portugal’s most prestigious and sought after bottlings. It is usually Crasto’s most hedonistic wine, bursting with flavor—yet also beautifully structured, elegant and built to last. The hedonism remains here, although it is a much lighter, smaller scaled wine than the ’03. The best feature of this wine is, hands down, the aromatics. You could simply sit there and smell it and be happy. The fruit is gorgeous, sweet and delectable, yet surrounded by ripe tannins that make it seem like a graceful, Burgundian-styled wine, an impression reinforced by its elegant mid-palate. There were moments when I thought this was a bit too delicate and understated for its status. Once you taste the delectable fruit, though, intellectual evaluation may not be your first priority. You will simply be more interested in having another glass. While this does not have the power and depth of the last release, the 2003, nor its persistence, it has many charms of its own, including unforgettably delicious fruit, and arguably better balance. It is ethereal and delicate, but often quite amazing. It could use a couple of years to settle down, but it is surprisingly approachable at the moment. Expect to be impressed with finesse, not power. If you’re looking for a big, thick fruit bomb—this is not it. Drink 2009-2021. In 2005, 165 cases were imported of 800 cases produced.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.
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