Feiler-Artinger Ruster Ausbruch Pinot Cuvee, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria

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The 2004 Ausbruch Pinot Cuvee is the latest in a series of Ausbruche employing the pinot family, although this (non-definitive) blend contains only Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, and looks as if it will become something special. Peach and apple in the nose already reflect an interplay of caramelized and fresh aspects. The palate is enormously rich, thick and honeyed, yet manages to be at once bracing and juicy. This leads to a quite refreshing finish in which one can distinguish, in addition to lovely pinot gris spice and oakiness, distinct layers of peach jam and apple jelly, caramelized peach and apple, and fresh fruit. Here is a lovely example of the unique virtues of the best nobly sweet wines from Burgenland, enormously rich yet light on their feet, incipiently baroque in their rather ostentatious sensuality, yet quite simply refreshing for all their sweetness. Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Sweet and rich, but not as nuanced as Feiler-Artinger’s more expensive Essenz bottling, this is still an excellent dessert wine. Dried apricot and pineapple flavors turn a bit caramelly on the finish. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Neuberger and Chardonnay.——J.C.(12/1/2006)—— 90