From selections over many days beginning in late October – at first, he insists, consisting more of healthy but shriveled berries, and only later of botrytized fruit – Weils 2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese displays distilled-strength, Chartreuse-like herbal essences and floral perfume very recognizably an extension of the B.A. and gold capsule Auslese that preceded it. A smoky pungency points toward the advance of botrytis. Intense caramel, honey, and peach preserves as well as suggestions of maracuja and cedar join in on the palate, the entire array of flavors suffused with quickening fresh lemon and grapefruit. There is an exhilarating sense of tension here rather than the discord registered by the corresponding Eiswein and Turmberg T.B.A.; a clear signature of vineyard identity; and an ability to balance enormous sweetness, although it will take 15-20 years I suspect for transcendent harmony to emerge. Look for this to stand up to 50 or more years of cellaring and quite possibly ultimately emerge as a stunning monument to its vintage, site, and estate.As Wilhelm Weil points out, by the time he began harvesting in early October, 2009 – sooner than has been usual under his regime – the grapes had already been hanging for 115 days, and the fact that the weather cooled thereafter and Kiedrichs hillside sites continued to enjoy regular breezes were positive factors in adding further concentration – including of acidity – to the finished wines. In consequence, he insists that “while 2007 and 2008 were very good vintages; 2009 is for our estate on a different level … among my 22 vintages, near the forefront.” Weil is now offering a range of three single-vineyard dry Rieslings in addition to his Erstes Gewachs but says his vision is of a tier of “premier crus” and one of “grand crus,” with only a single dry wine eventually being labeled “Grafenberg.” The issue is not merely academic, I would argue, but has stylistic implications. As my notes indicate, I found the style of Weils allegedly “second” dry Grafenberg from 2009 both more attractive and more recognizably of its site than the corresponding Erstes Gewachs. (For specific differences in approach consult those detailed notes.) Weil further intends to streamline his offerings by eventually reaching some sort of stylistic compromise between his generic Kabinett halbtrocken and his unabashedly sweet Kabinett (both of which characteristically come from the Wasseros), although he admits to some uncertainty about closing what is analytically-speaking a roughly 30 gram gap in residual sugar between these two. As both president of the local VDP chapter and arguably his regions most prominent grower and quality standard bearer, how Wilhelm Weil perceives and elects to act on classificatory, stylistic, and marketing issues can have considerable influence on the future evolution of Rheingau Riesling. Even the least among this years residually sweet Weil offerings is extremely high acid on paper. In most cases, this is positively enervating, although at times strident. Weil indicates that only beyond the level of Spatlese was any significant botrytis present, even then requiring extreme diligence and patience to collect even small volumes. And as in many instances this vintage, the present collections apex of quality does not coincide with its apex in must weights. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Hugely sweet yet reasonably balanced given its enormous concentration, this is a tremendous example of the quality heights sweet Riesling can achieve. Golden raisin, dried apricots and candied pineapple all swirl together in a delicious haze of sugar-coma-inducing syrup that nevertheless goes down easily. Will age easily for decades.——J.C.(3/1/2012)—— 97