Deep, pungent aromas of sweet fruit and bramble mark the nose of this solid, full-scale wine. Full-throttle cherry flavors, with licorice, tobacco and dark-chocolate accents reign on the palate. The silky, elegant texture makes it almost too easy to like. Ends long, with even tannins, and tobacco and cocoa notes. Refined and balanced, yet almost austere now; best to cellar for four to seven years.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 92