The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard” raises the bar. It has more depth, extract, and richness than its sibling. Full-bodied, with layers of flavor, it has serious weight to its blue and black fruit, lustrous personality. Give it a decade to develop and drink it through 2040. Tel. (425) 481-5502; www.januikwinery.com

This has a hint of the vineyard’s characteristic chalky minerality, but other than that it’s tight as a drum, with the same uncompromising, acidic frame, showing compact black cherry fruit and no textural detail. Give it hours of breathing time and it opens up a bit more.——P.G.(11/1/2007)—— 89