The superb 2005 Vacqueyras has dense ruby/purple color, a classic nose of ground pepper and licorice, garrigue, and plenty of black cherry jam. This is loaded and should turn out to be an outstanding effort. This is arguably the best estate of Gigondas, although the exuberant proprietor Yves Gras has plenty of competition from his nearby neighbor Louis Barruol at St.-Cosme. A few years ago readers may remember I mentioned that Gras started a negociant business which is obviously successful given his knowledge of local growers and top vineyards. He has also opened a wine-tasting bar and bistro in the old Roman village of Vaison La Romaine with one of the local chefs, Raoul Reichrath. It is called Bistro du ‘O.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2005 Vacqueyras Les Aubes is elegant, slightly more austere, with higher tannins, perhaps a touch more density, but considerable structure and hardness, which is not always what drinkers are looking for. Nevertheless, it is a very fine wine. Yves Gras, one of the more charismatic figures of the Rhone Valley, has his own small, high-quality negociant business, and most of the wines merit serious consideration. He has hit a gem with the whites from Sablet, a village that is regarded by insiders as one of the finest sources for dry whites in the southern Rhone. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083