Vacqueyras has as much potential as just about any appellation of the southern Rhone, with the exception of Chateauneuf du Pape (which it can resemble, rather than its closest neighbor, Gigondas). The 2006 Vacqueyras Les Aubes is an outstanding wine. Deep ruby/purple with plenty of black cherry, raspberry, and cassis fruit, the wine is full-bodied, opulent, fleshy, and best drunk over the next 8-10 years. Yves Gras, one of the more charismatic figures of the Rhone Valley, has his own small, high-quality negociant business, and most of the wines merit serious consideration. He has hit a gem with the whites from Sablet, a village that is regarded by insiders as one of the finest sources for dry whites in the southern Rhone. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083