The Jadot 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet is seductively scented with iris, honeysuckle, and white peach. Saline, chalky, and somehow crystalline mineral elements shimmer against the backdrop of these fruit and floating floral elements on a silken-textured plate. Subtle nutty and honeyed suggestions add depth and richness to a ravishingly refined, practically delicate, and persistently refreshing expression of the class that is possible in this vintage, one that seems to especially suit this site. I would expect this to be worth following for the better part of a decade. (As to why it is so unaffected by bottling and sulfuring when compared with so many of its stable mates and considering the seemingly inherently ethereal aspects of this site, neither I nor Lardiere have a clue.)
Jadot is one of those addresses where I confess to having feared that the combination of this vintage’s marked impression of acidity and relative leanness with Jacques Lardiere’s love of precision and merely selective use of malo-lactic fermentation might result in a dearth of sensual appeal. And he is the first to admit that a relatively high proportion of malic acidity was present in 2007, along with a danger of vegetal notes. But Lardiere took most of his 2007s all the way through malo, and my fears were at worst marginally realized. An overarching caveat is that these wines received higher dosages of sulphur (25 versus 15 grams) at bottling than those of other recent vintages, and will – Lardiere opines – take longer to shake off a certain pungency or hardening, but it did not find that alarming. As usual, I could not take time to taste all of Jadot’s many bottlings, which are less numerous this year, in any case, than in 2006. Incidentally, the first vintages of Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse under Jadot’s ownership and Lardiere’s direction – on which I shall report at a later time – are tremendously successful, preserving and even elevating critical elements of the personality that has long wines from that estate so memorable.
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