Harvested at just-under T.B.A. minimum must weight, the “three-star” 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese** smells and tastes of vanilla and butter cream icing, lemon meringue, apple jelly, apricot preserves, and an elixir of distilled herbs. Overtones of black tea and bright citrus add counterpoint to the candied and confectionary main themes of this ultra-rich, incredibly concentrated Auslese, which finishes with formidable thrust and complexity, retaining – as Kerpen outs it – “a strong set of teeth.” Thickly dense without being at all creamy or cuddly, this sets itself apart from its fellow Kerpen Auslesen and suggests a ten or twelve year wait and up to two decades additional aging thereafter would be amply repaid. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300