“Now we’re into really full botrytis,” comments Kerpen by way of introducing a “three star” 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese that reflects near-T.B.A. must weight. Gardenia, mango, musk melon, white raisin and honey inform this oily-textured, thickly-honeyed, spicy, vanilla-tinged elixir. But if one were expecting heaviness, a surprise would be in store. For all of its textural turgidity, this conveys a sense of elegance and lift in its long finish. It just needs time for the sheer sweetness to back off, and one can expect from 10-30 years of something truly exceptional and typical of the vintage’s best. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300