Wood smoke, chalk dust, and lemon oil in the nose of Barmes’ 2007 Riesling Hengst point toward precisely the sort of adamantly mineral and pungently citric expression of that site which await on the palate. Sheer density and ripeness – along with a hint of botrytis honey – convey a sort of richness, supported by a hint of sweetness. But this is really unevolved for now, if rather handsomely austere. I would revisit it in 2-3 years and tentatively anticipate a decade or more of interest. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

(residual sugar: 11.9g/l) Excellent. Fresh, clean, pure fruit. Slight spritz. Great acid and residual sugar in balance. Palate of fresh citrus. Good length and a real pleasure to drink!