Camille Giroud's 2006 Corton Rognets displays smoky black tea, salt spray, peat, and iodine in the nose, ushering in a rich though tartly-edged black fruits, bitter-sweet herbal concentrates, and dark chocolate on a firmly tannic but by no means rigid palate. This exhibits a purity of fruit and energy in its long, savory finish that set it apart from the rest of its pack (although I last tasted it from tank). I would anticipate 6-8 years' potential here. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70