Opening in the glass with lovely aromas of golden orchard fruit, mandarin, drawn butter, fresh pastry and smoke, the 1993 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with a textural attack and a racy, tensile mid-palate, concluding with a penetrating finish. Beautifully balanced and fleshing out in the glass, this is still a very youthful bottle of white Burgundy.

Fat and rich, harmonious, sporting a chalk, mineral, pineapple, vanilla and ripe fruit character. Almost outstanding. -