A Gewurztraminer-like spiciness and smoky pungency practically assault passersby from the glass of Messmer’s 2008 Burrweiler Altenforst Rieslaner Spatlese, rendering explicable his decision to show this grape variety last in his 2008 line-up. Its palate veritably explodes with spice-tinged pink grapefruit and lusciously ripe pineapple, the natural acidity of this variety – reinforced by vineyard conditions – being more than a match for the wine’s high residual sugar, even if the overall impression is a bit youthfully sweet-sour. Caramel and nut brittle add to the confectionary side of a vivaciously persistent finish. This should merit following for at least a decade. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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