Luigi Pira, who has the most massive hands I have ever encountered on a vigneron, has fashioned a more structured effort with his 1997 Barolo Margheria. This wine has become more delineated and civilized after spending time in cask and foudre. Tell-tale notes of kirsch liqueur, dried flowers, rose petals, licorice, soy, leather, and tobacco combine with scents of seaweed, chocolate, and red/black fruits. The Margheria possesses firm tannin and muscle. It is a sensationally concentrated, full-bodied, powerful Barolo in need of 2-4 years of cellaring. It should drink well between 2004-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Luigi Pira, who has the most massive hands I have ever encountered on a vigneron, has fashioned a more structured effort with his 1997 Barolo Margheria. This wine has become more delineated and civilized after spending time in cask and foudre. Tell-tale notes of kirsch liqueur, dried flowers, rose petals, licorice, soy, leather, and tobacco combine with scents of seaweed, chocolate, and red/black fruits. The Margheria possesses firm tannin and muscle. It is a sensationally concentrated, full-bodied, powerful Barolo in need of 2-4 years of cellaring. It should drink well between 2004-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411