The dark plum-colored 1998 Barolo Margheria exhibits structure as well as a backward character. It is full-bodied, with outstanding concentration, offering notes of chocolate, black cherry liqueur, spice box, and earth. There is plenty of glycerin, moderate tannin, and a long, 40-second finish in this tightly-knit effort. It will drink well for 10-16 years.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411