Aromas of crushed berry, succulent wild berry, violets and loads of white pepper character turn to a sweet ripeness, folding together in a seamless presentation. The finish is long and lingering, with hints of beef carpaccio, mocha and espresso, and it just keeps getting better. A magnificent wine that makes a huge statement about Syrah in Napa. Drink now through 2013. 313 cases made. -JL

Colgin’s first Syrah, and the first from winemaker Mark Aubert, the wine is very dark and glyceriney, suggesting massive extract. Opens with an exciting blast of white pepper leading to baked cherry pie, leather, truffle and complex earthy scents. In the mouth, it’s very fruity and chocolaty, with tons of toasty new oak. Yet there is something dramatic here. This is a Syrah to carefully watch in future vintages.——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 92