These are Cady’s early bottlings and not his best selections (all his vinification is done in tank) but his 2007 Coteaux du Layon smells charmingly of spiced quince and pear, spreads soothingly and delicately over the palate, and finishes with subtle spice, quince preserves, cooling chalkiness and deftly-balanced sweetness. At its price, you can afford to treat yourself to an occasional aperitif or patio glass, yes, but try fooling around with this during the meal, too. I would plan to drink it over the next two years. Such a bargain is Loire wine that one can purchase a full bottle of delicious, satisfying nobly sweet Chenin from Philippe Cady for well less than the price ceiling set for this report.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29