The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo is rather subdued at the outset, then explodes on the mid-palate and finish with masses of super-ripe dark fruit, licorice, leather and spices. Despite its jammy, concentrated fruit the Berardo possesses gorgeous balance and a generous, enveloping finish that rounds out its flashy personality. The Berardo is 100% Sangiovese aged in 100% new French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Proprietor Marco Bacci makes a wide range of wines across his properties in Tuscany, but those of Castello di Bossi lead the way when it comes to quality and consistency. These are rich, textured wines that in most cases can handle fairly high amounts of new French oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

7 Berardo Riserva is an amazing achievement with elegant beauty and perfumed aromas of blue flowers, forest fruit and spice. Great structure and a naturally smooth consistency help support the tight tannins. ——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 93