Matrot's white wines tend to be austere and lean, but in a ripe vintage of thick, juicy wines such as 1992, his wines exhibit more flesh and upfront charm. The 1992 Puligny-Montrachet-Les Chalumeaux is also monolithic and foursquare. It offers chunky fruit, but lacks finesse and elegance. It will make a fine mouthful of wine for drinking over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.