Anne Gros’s generally light touch with extraction would seem to fit the nature of a thick-skinned vintage like 2005, and there is no question she has captured an element of delicacy in her 2005 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau (from high above Clos Vougeot) that is rare for the vintage. Red cherry, rhubarb, cinnamon and lily-like florality in the nose lead to a polished, silky, bright, juicy, pure-fruited palate with persistent inner-mouth florality and hints of truffle. Meat and minerals enter on the long finish, which offers bloody, chalky and saline hints mingled with ripe but slightly tart red fruits. While this will have most appeal for tasters who like a little kick of acidity in their Pinot, the tannins are scarcely noticeable and the wine perfect for early drinking, indeed the most immediately charming wine in this year’s collection and my favorite Anne Gros Chambolle yet. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($42.00; 86). A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.