Wafting from the glass with scents of orange oil, clear honey and pear, complemented by a subtle top note of petrol, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a gourmand core of fruit that's framed by tangy acids and chalky extract. It's a nicely balanced rendition of this early-ripening site.