The 2006 Barolo Colonnello opens with a fabulous bouquet of tar and roses. A focused, sinewy wine in this vintage, the Colonnello emerges from the glass with regal elegance. It is a mysterious, sensual Barolo that only gradually reveals the true breadth of its personality. Constantly changing in the glass, the Colonnello offers tons of complexity, with sweet, aromatic notes that return to frame the austere, powerful finish. The terrain in Colonnello contains a slightly higher percentage of sand, making it Conterno's most silky, accessible single-vineyard Barolo, in relative terms, of course. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Aldo Conterno is back. After a period of inconsistent wines (by this house’s standards) in the mid- to late-1990s, Conterno once again takes its place among the region’s top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno’s three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future. The 2005s are a worthy follow-up to the hugely successful 2004s, leaving no doubt that 2004 and 2005 are the finest back to back vintages here since the historic 1989 and 1990. The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management. In 2005 the estate harvested only a portion of each of its vineyards before the rains, while some of the fruit was brought in after the rains. In the end, only the fruit that was harvested before the inclement weather set in was bottled, so overall production in 2005 is roughly 40% of normal. On the plus side, there will be a small amount of Granbussia. These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won’t last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461