Licorice, leather, char and an overload of plum and berries are what greet you, and that’s just the bouquet. In the mouth, this is thick, bruising stuff; the tannins are drawing and very tight, but the flavors of licorice, blackberry and chocolate are excellent. Finishes rock solid, which is to be expected given the wine’s total package. If you can, hold until 2011 to let the tannins soften; it’s meant for the cellar.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 91