The portfolio includes two Shiraz-based wines. The 2005 Shiraz “Underhill” was aged in 30% new oak. Purple-colored, it reveals a straightforward nose of smoke, toast, earth, blueberry, and blackberry with a hint of olives in the background. Although it has ample ripe fruit, it lacks complexity and the finish is slightly attenuated. Ancient by Australian standards, this artisanal winery was started in 1969 by Dr. Bailey Carrodus. It now encompasses 78 dry-farmed acres. All of the wines are produced from estate fruit.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

The 2005s are the last vintage released before the passing of Yarra Yering founder Dr. Bailey Carrodus, and the Underhill is a star, delivering blueberry, spice and vanilla flavors aboard a rich, creamy mouthfeel. At 15% alcohol, a touch of warmth does creep in on the finish.——J.C.(12/1/2008)—— 91