Readers who would like an introduction to Deiss's style should seek out his 1994 Pinot Blanc Bergheim. Aged on its lees and bottled naturally, it exhibits superb purity and character, a moderately intense, orange/tangerine-scented nose, medium-bodied, clean, well-delineated flavors, and a long, zesty finish. It should drink well for 2-3 years. Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579