When Neumayer’s 2005 Riesling Rothenbart opened up with tangerine rind and Szechuan pepper, I thought for a moment perhaps I had the grape varieties reversed today and had now arrived at the Gruner Veltliner. There is an ethereal botrytis-induced smoky, honeyed note hovering over the glass as well. On the palate, this is juicy and mouthfilling with a wonderful sweetness of fruit, finishing vividly with pepper, smoke, honey, and tangerine familiar from the nose, and a decidedly chalky mineral substrate that cannot help but turn the taster’s thoughts toward the rocky conglomerate slope on which it is grown. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Pale green-yellow. A playful, inviting bouquet of stone and citrus fruits carries onto the refreshing if uncomplicated palate. Fine acidity gives this food-friendly wine very good balance. Drink now to 2010.