A 2005 Gelber Traminer Noble Selection, however (with “Gelber” printed on what is technically the back label because Austrian law does not – yet at least – recognize this distinguished grape variety as distinctive), was of a qualitatively different order. Alluringly scented with rose petals, honey, and pungent hints of radish and black pepper, this wine comes onto the palate oily-rich, bitter-sweet, but also bright as only this member of the Traminer family can be. There is undeniable bitterness in the finish, but both sweetness and bright acidity help carry one’s perceptions past that to lingering rose petals and chocolate. Salomon insists that this was more the product of spontaneous shriveling than of botrytis.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300