The 2009 Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta shows broad shoulders to support Indian spice, tobacco, leather, dried berry, dried mint and licorice. The wine is firm and sharp with cooling acidity and rock-hard structure. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. As always, Enrico Rizzi delivers classic, even-handed expressions of Nebbiolo from his family estate that is perched along the backbone of a vine-covered ridge in Treiso. I have always admired the work achieved here with cement vats. Importer: David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; tel. (212) 807-1680