This is really good wine, fabulously rewarding from first sniff to last sip. It defines coastal California Pinot, and it possesses that appellation’s brisk acids and balanced flavors. Cherries, cranberries and mulberries vie for position against mushrooms, fresh garden herbs and earth, with oak playing a supporting role. What’s hard to get across is the wine’s complexity and sheer deliciousness. Drink over the next two years. ——S.H.(12/15/2005)—— 95