Gaja's 1990 Barolo Sperss is even richer, fuller, and deeper than the spectacular 1989 and outstanding 1988. The 1990 exhibits Gaja's signature in its extraordinary purity of flavor and layered richness, full body, and moderately tannic finish. It offers a huge, classic Barolo nose of roses, black fruits, smoke, and a whiff of tar. Dense and large-scaled, as well as stylish and graceful, this immensely impressive wine is supple enough to be drunk, but it is capable of lasting 25-30 years.
Admirers of great wine will no doubt be debating the merits of Gaja's 1989s and 1990s for the next two or three decades. Both are spectacular vintages. When I tasted them side by side in March, the 1990s possessed a slight edge in terms of concentration and power. That does not mean they will ultimately turn out better, but they are fabulously impressive wines of unprecedented complexity, stature, and richness. For all his success, the admirable Angelo Gaja remains fanatically committed to excellence, and because of that he is Piedmont's reference point, as well as an inspiration to many of the young growers just beginning to estate bottle their wines.
Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY.
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