The 2001 Sperss is the alter ego to the Conteisa. It is a decidedly powerful, virile wine with plenty of Serralunga muscle in its powerful, brooding personality. Tobacco, mint, crushed flowers, licorice and leather are some of the notes that add complexity and depth to the dark fruit. Layers of flavor build to the explosive finish. Readers will have to be patient with the Sperss. All it needs is time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900