Because the Domaine Ramonet enjoys a mythical status it is fashionable to criticize the wines as not being as exceptional as they used to be. Don't fall for this line of thinking. This domaine produces some of the finest Chardonnays in the world. While other domaines have begun making superb wines over recent years (i.e., Amiot-Bonfils and Colin-Deleger), and others have always made wines as profound as Ramonet, in particular Michel Niellon, the name Ramonet still carries with it a magical significance. If there is any criticism to be leveled, it is that vintages in the late eighties and early nineties appear to possess high acidity. The domaine adamantly denies doing any acidification. Ramonet made excellent 1992s, and very good 1991s that are worthy of serious buyers' interest. The 1991 Ramonet offerings are crisp, lean, elegant, and tightly knit. Again, high acidity is a hallmark in what was a notoriously low acid year. The closed 1991 Chassagne-Montrachet-Les Ruchottes exhibits surprising structure for a 1991, impressive power, admirable richness, and fine depth. Unlike most top 1991s, this is a wine to cellar for 2-3 years; it should last through most of the first decade of the next century. Importer: Chateaux and Estates, New York, NY.