The Chassagne-Montrachet-Les Ruchottes (referred to as "the little Montrachet" by the Ramonets) is the wine to buy. It is powerful and alcoholic, with great fruit and structure, as well as remarkable density and intensity. The 1992 is all of those things, with fabulous quantities of fruit and an explosively long, crisp finish. It is one 1992 that requires 3-4 years of cellaring; it should keep for 12-15. Because the Domaine Ramonet enjoys a mythical status it is fashionable to criticize the wines as not being as exceptional as they used to be. Don't fall for this line of thinking. This domaine produces some of the finest Chardonnays in the world. While other domaines have begun making superb wines over recent years (i.e., Amiot-Bonfils and Colin-Deleger), and others have always made wines as profound as Ramonet, in particular Michel Niellon, the name Ramonet still carries with it a magical significance. If there is any criticism to be leveled, it is that vintages in the late eighties and early nineties appear to possess high acidity. The domaine adamantly denies doing any acidification. Ramonet made excellent 1992s, and very good 1991s that are worthy of serious buyers' interest. Importer: Chateaux and Estates, New York, NY.