Tough to appreciate now due to its acidity and tannins, which lock it down behind a cloak of impenetrability. There are exotic wild raspberry and cherry fruit, cola, licorice, Provencal herb, bacon and pepper flavors, but you can’t quite get to them, because they’re behind bars. Obviously needs time. Give it 3–5 years in the cellar, and it should begin to blossom after that.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 92

This blend of different vineyards is immediately appealing for its silky mouthfeel and delicious flavors. Floods the mouth with raspberries, cherries, red currants, licorice, bacon, dusty herb and sandalwood flavors. So pretty, so polished, so refined. Will develop over the next two–four years. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 91