The 2005 Hautes Cotes de Nuits – perhaps because of having finished malo sooner, a bit more marked by the new wood than its Beaune counterpart – smells of dried cranberry, sage, resin and sawdust. Sweet yet tart fruit and pungent herbal notes combine with persistent wood notes for an ester-filled, high-toned mouth of what could almost pass for Zinfandel. (I don’t mean that as criticism!) A long, salty, sappy, bright finish manages to invigorate, remain juicy, and draw saliva despite being marked by the oak. In some ways this defies the prevalent darkness of the vintage, indeed it could wake you up in the middle of the night. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.