This is a wine to lay away, to judge by the hard tannins that dominate it. But so strong is the heart of fruit that the flavors burst through that straitjacket. They flood the palate with amazingly dense black currant, cherry and dark chocolate fruit that last through a long finish. As tough as it is now, it will develop gracefully for many years.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 93