The 1971 Volnay Champans (a late release of a small cache direct from the cellars) remains fresh and vital on the rustic but charming nose of redcurrant and cranberry fruit, slightly earthy in style. The palate is similarly quite square-jawed and broad-shouldered with obdurate tannins and perhaps just a touch of volatility seeping in toward the hard finish, but there are still vestiges of pleasure to be found.