The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tighter and more linear than others at the moment: strict and broody. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm grip, nicely rounded in the mouth but for me, just missing the tension and vivacity of say, the Brouillards of Les Caillerets. Jean-Pierre Charlot spoke of the demoralising effect of the 2012 and 2013 vintages. There was a slight air of resignation about the friendly giant of Volnay. Watching helplessly as vast swathes of vineyard are destroyed in the blink of a teary eye by hail provokes the question: “Well, what is the point?” To put a number on that, his 35 parcels that together constitute around 10 hectares was approximately 60% down in 2012 and to be honest, I didn’t want to ask about 2013 since I did not want to pile on the pain. But I continue to hold Jean-Pierre in the highest regard – he is the quintessential Burgundy vigneron with an innate knowledge of winemaking that makes him one of the most respected, if not high-profile, in the region. His wines are a masterclass in under-statement, letting the terroir do all the talking via relatively low alcohol levels plus a prudent use of oak (mostly Damy) and sulfur. The magic happens when you allow his wines to age in bottle. Having had the privilege of vintages back to the 1960s, I can vouch that they have an unerring ability to mature with grace and style, which is not always obvious in their youth. His 2012s are well worth seeking out in their diminished quantities, wines that I would love to have in my cellar. Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218