From just south of Mazoyeres, a 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes smells of sweetly ripe black cherry with overtones of sage and resin. A slight chewiness of tannin and woodiness are well covered in folds of fruit with notes of caramelization, and liqueur-like intensity of cherry and black raspberry dominate the lingering finish. Time will tell what further complexity may accrue to this impressively, sweetly-concentrated Pinot, but I think one would need at least 5-7 years for a fair assessment. PLEASE NOTE: Due to a technical difficulty, I have been regrettably unable to access my taped tasting notes on the enormous range of wines that Frederic Magnien vinifies under his own name as a negociant. Their style is very similar to that of the Michel Magnien wines. A number of his ostensibly lesser cuvees offer striking richness for their price, and a lengthy line-up of celebrated crus included numerous not surprisingly impressive – and indeed flamboyant – wines. There is among these, however, a tendency toward extraneous, toasted-oak sweetness and occasional flirtation with over-ripeness, that will not appeal to some tasters. But readers craving extroverted and sweetly-rich Pinot are going to find a lot to like at Maison Frederic Magnien.The wines Frederic Magnien makes at his family estate seem to exhibit slightly less flamboyance than many of those he vinifies as a negociant, but certainly they are formidably, at times almost overbearingly, palate-staining, with abundant underlying tannins and in most instances lavish sweet spiciness of oak. Due to a technical malfunction, my notes on several of the wines from this domaine are sadly missing.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-42-55-42-93.
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