The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Margone is a big, hulking wine. The fruit is decidedly over-ripe, which introduces elements of oxidation and advancing aromas that are out of character in this vintage. Ideally, the wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

There’s a very ripe element to this special Riserva that tastes like raspberry jam and blueberry preserves. The wine is thick and gritty in the mouth with a full palate of spicy berry and cherry liqueur flavors. We liked the 2005 base Chianti Classico Riserva better. ——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 88