The medium-weight 2005 Merlot offers an attractive, spicy nose with cassis and black cherry in the forefront. This is a forward, pretty effort with excellent flavors and balance. Enjoy it now and over the next 12 years. Kudos to Tamarack Cellars for an outstanding, individualistic lineup of well-priced wines.Tel. (509) 526-3533; www.tamarackcellars.com

Same vineyards as the ’04, but a riper, deeper, denser vintage. This is good Washington merlot, with muscle, extract and plenty of stuffing. Flavors run to the dark side, blue/black fruits, mineral, licorice, smoke. It’s got the kind of mass that will stand up to all meats, and the balance to age over the next decade or so. Nicely built, still tight and chewy.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 89