Saouma makes no secret of the fact that his 2005 Bonnes Mares – and in fact that cru in general – is his personal favorite. The nose suggests concentrated confiture of red and black raspberries with salty, resinous and smoky accents – almost archetypal for this site, in fact. And like so many 2005s from this vineyard, the wine has a slightly gamey, tart, savage edge of fruit and mineral to it. Bitter black chocolate low tones and floral high notes add complexity. For sheer intensity, it is hard to beat this amazing performance – but for refinement, complexity or mystery, there are other Le Moine wines I would place ahead of it. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000