Perhaps the wine that jumped the most in score from when I first tasted these wines out of bottle in 2008 is the 2004 Pluribus. Rated 94 back in 2008, it’s now a solid 98 and knocking on the door of perfection. This wine comes from a Spring Mountain vineyard northwest of the charming town of St. Helena. It has gorgeous notes of graphite, acacia flowers, blueberry liqueur, scorched earth and hot stones. Reminiscent of a top Graves, it is another full-bodied, rich, concentrated wine with good acidity as well as fabulous purity and concentration. I had not seen the Graves-like character in this wine prior to bottling and post-bottling, but it is there now. This stunner is open for business and its fragrance and suppleness suggest drinking it over the next two decades. A brilliant project of Harlan Estates’ proprietor, Bill Harlan, these single-vineyard wines have been everything a Cabernet connoisseur could ever hope for since they were first released. Amazingly, these wines taste better with age than they did young, which is exactly what Harlan and his winemaking team of Bob Levy and consulting enologist Michel Rolland are trying to prove.

The newest wine, Pluribus, will give just about any vineyard on Spring Mountain a run for its money. The 2004 Pluribus has a dense purple color and an elegant, sweet nose of creme de cassis intermixed with some camphor, graphite, and a hint of blueberry (or is it very ripe raspberries?). Quite opulent, full-bodied, but with good underlying acidity, this wine is fresh and remarkably light on its feet for a wine of such enormous intensity and richness. These efforts are all brilliantly executed wines from obviously fabulous sites.

A rich, opulent, fleshy style, brimming with ripe black cherry, wild berry and currant flavors that are supple and well-focused, keeping the fruit well-centered and ending with ripe tannins that have a nice earthy, cedary edge. There's wonderful length on the finish. Best from 2009 through 2018. 630 cases made. -JL