The Kruger-Rumpf 2008 Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Grosses Gewachs displays similar citrus and herb characteristics to the separate lot that was bottled just as Dautenpflanzer trocken, but the extra measure of concentration here – as is often the case with Grosse Gewachse – manifests itself as bitterness of citrus rind and pips. Of course, the Rumpfs agree that the “l(fā)esser” bottling is more aromatically expressive, juicier – in short, more fun to drink now – than the Grosses Gewachs. That’s one of the reasons they bottled them separately. But I ask myself, what exactly is it we’re supposed to be waiting for in the evolution of the Grosses Gewachs? As the estate’s talent in this category has grown, I need to go back and review how they are faring in bottle. But like many wines in its new luxury category, I am skeptical that this will live up to its price. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in certain of their 2007s. “There was just nothing you could do this year,” comments Georg Rumpf, “except let the fruit hang a long time on the vine.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300