The first thing you notice, apart from the density and magnificent color of this wine, is the perfume. Floral, complex and inviting with spicy citrus scents, it sets up the wine with an elegant, inviting entry that brings nuance and subtlety to a variety that can sometimes behave like an overblown Zinfandel. Here it is world class. ——P.G.(11/15/2004)—— 92