Every bit as profound, yet distinctly different, the 2003 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is a cellar selection that comes mostly from Chave’s Les Bessards holdings and sees slightly more time in oak. More decadent in style, with ripe cassis, truffle, earth, spiced meats and licorice, it offers a singular profile on the palate with massive concentration and extract, a thick, chewy texture and incredible length. As with the straight Hermitage, it stays graceful and elegant, with no sense of weight or heat in its seamless profile. Sadly, there were only 125 cases of this elixir produced, so here’s to hoping I get to taste this singular beauty again as well! Jean Louis’ two 2003 Hermitages should be on everyone’s bucket list of wines to try at least once (preferably more) in their life. They both represent the essence of Hermitage and are as good as wine gets.