Chardonnay, Muscadet and something known as Pansa Blanca comprise this Catalonian oddball, which is so severely oaked that you have no idea what the grapes might actually taste like. No, it’s not badly made, meaning there’s mouthfeel, acidity and stages to the wine. But the aromas, flavors and overall package are weird and confusing.——M.S.(12/15/2007)—— 82